The evolution of Black women journalists' hair in the news: how the CROWN Act has changed Black hair forever

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Content THE EVOLUTION OF BLACK WOMEN JOURNALISTS HAIR IN THE NEWS:
HOW THE CROWN ACT HAS CHANGED BLACK HAIR FOREVER

By
Anaja Smith
A Thesis Presented to the
FACULTY OF THE USC ANNENBERG SCHOOL
FOR COMMUNICATION AND JOURNALISM
UNIVERSITY OF SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA
In Partial Fulfillment of the
Requirements for the Degree
MASTER OF ARTS
(SPECIALIZED JOURNALISM)
August 2022
Copyright 2022 Anaja Smith

ii
TABLE OF CONTENTS

Abstract………………………………………………………………………………………….. iii
Website Link…………………………………………………………………………………….. 1
Bibliography…………………………………………………………………………………….. 4
Appendix ….…………………………………………………………………………………….. 5

iii
Abstract

Black hair salons are typically warm, inviting and relatable spaces where many feel comfortable
to vent about their personal lives. The beautification process there is more than a physical
transformation. It is a bonding session with the stylist or other women in the shop. It is a place of
safety and no judgment. As I sit in Shawnie’s chair to get my hair braided for the first time by a
professional, I realize how relieved I am. I feel secure in my decision to get cornrows, although I
will be on air the next day. But why is this important?

Historically, Black women have used hair to creatively express their personal style. The
juxtaposition of this self-expression and the perception of others of Black hair, is that many
Black women have not always been welcome to wear their hair in styles that are true to the
identity of our culture. From the Tignon Law of 1786 to 2019’s The CROWN Act, or Create a
Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair law, over time there has been a shift in acceptance
of Black hair in conventional settings.

In the 1970s, Black women wore the afro. In the ‘80’s relaxed hair and jerry curls took over. In
the ‘90s, women wore box braids after Janet Jackson made them popular in the movie “Poetic
Justice”. During the 2000s and 2010s, was the birth of various protective styles like kinky twists,
sew-ins and eventually wash-and-goes. But these styles were rarely, if ever seen on journalists.
From the late 2010s to the 2020s, Black women wear a culmination or version of all of these
styles in broadcast news, television series and in movies. Overall, there has been an increase of
natural hair representation in the mainstream media.

I spoke with a Black Los Angeles hairstylist who says since The CROWN Act has passed in
California—which stands to prohibit discrimination against natural hairstyles including braids,
dread locs, natural textured curls, etc.—she’s experienced an increase in the request of natural
hairstyles like faux-locs, corn rows and other protective styles from the working woman. I also
followed people who have experienced hair discrimination in the workplace, or unconventionally
decided to wear natural hairstyles as an anchor or reporter.

I created a multimedia piece (part written feature story and part broadcast video) to report on the
evolution of hairstyles worn by Black women in television news. My original reporting includes
what Black hair means in the Black community, how it is directly related to self-esteem, self-
acceptance and self-discovery, and the importance of being able to wear it in mainstream spaces
without discrimination. I explored the reasoning behind the radical decision Black women
journalists have made to wear natural hairstyles on air including the passing of The CROWN Act
(2019), and the liberation they feel from the authenticity of their freedom of expression.

1

Website Link

https://express.adobe.com/page/KlnYLO76WWdT8/

2
Bibliography

“About.” The Official CROWN Act. Accessed June 17, 2022.
https://www.thecrownact.com/about.

Burney, Melanie. “Judge Dismisses Lawsuit by Wrestling Official in Controversial South
Jersey Dreadlocks Case.” https://www.inquirer.com. The Philadelphia Inquirer, May 7,
2021. https://www.inquirer.com/education/nj-education-wrestling-dreadlocks-buena-
andrew-johnson-referee-alan-maloney-20210506.html.

Coalition, The CROWN. “New Dove Study Confirms Workplace Bias against Hairstyles
Impacts Black Women's Ability to Celebrate Their Natural Beauty.” New Dove Study
Confirms Workplace Bias Against Hairstyles Impacts Black Women's Ability To
Celebrate Their Natural Beauty. PR Newswire, May 1, 2019.
https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/new-dove-study-confirms-workplace-bias-
against-hairstyles-impacts-black-womens-ability-to-celebrate-their-natural-beauty-
300842006.html.

Collective, JOY. “Dove The CROWN Research Study ,” 2019.
https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5edc69fd622c36173f56651f/t/5edeaa2fe5ddef345e
087361/1591650865168/Dove_research_brochure2020_FINAL3.pdf.

Dawson, Gail A., Katherine A. Karl, and Joy V. Peluchette. “Hair Matters: Toward
Understanding Natural Black Hair Bias in the Workplace.” Journal of Leadership &
Organizational Studies 26, no. 3 (August 2019): 389–401.
https://doi.org/10.1177/1548051819848998.

Mercer, Kobena. “‘BLACK HAIR POLITICS’” Chapter. In Welcome to the Jungle: New
Positions in Black Cultural Studies, 33–54. Routledge, 1994.

3
Mohammed, Sagal. “8 Historic Black Hair Moments to Remember, from the 1700s to the
Present Day.” Stylist. The Stylist Group, September 15, 2021.
https://www.stylist.co.uk/beauty/hair/black-hair-history-definitive-historic-
moments/437183.

Noble, Brittany. “Why I Disappeared from the News Desk at WJTV in Jackson,
Mississippi.” Medium. Medium, January 23, 2019.
https://medium.com/@thenoblejournalist/why-i-disappeared-from-the-news-desk-at-
wjtv-in-jackson-mississippi-bd734b1affb3.

“Research Suggests Bias against Natural Hair Limits Job Opportunities for Black
Women.” Research Suggests Bias Against Natural Hair Limits Job Opportunities for
Black Women | Duke's Fuqua School of Business. Duke Fuqua School of Business,
August 12, 2020. https://www.fuqua.duke.edu/duke-fuqua-insights/ashleigh-rosette-
research-suggests-bias-against-natural-hair-limits-job.

Solé, Elise. “Fired Black TV News Anchor Alleges Her Boss Banned Her Natural Hair
and Pressured Her to Look like 'a Beauty Queen'.” Yahoo! Yahoo!, January 13, 2019.
https://www.yahoo.com/now/fired-black-tv-news-anchor-alleges-boss-banned-natural-
hair-pressured-look-like-beauty-queen-
213510173.html?guce_referrer=aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZ29vZ2xlLmNvbS8&guce_referre
r_sig=AQAAAMQGyLeqy0BGutUsFw8Ra62JDgtBJS2VSyf76TSP5v_QPDdJeEkeS5C
XxCO0doAp9UqZ18Sq26SdB5IseYpwmW5ygnNbZiUK4Bzx08j-
rtduu4r0Iv9RtjH6eKi6JTgplKXK-
3EXANuDkSsMjoLXYRLQIord6wJgLy765K38PsWe&guccounter=2.

Spencer, Octavia. Self Made: Inspired By The Life of Madam C.J Walker . Watch Self
Made: Inspired by the Life of Madam C.J. Walker | Netflix Official Site. Netflix, 2020.
https://www.netflix.com/watch/80219236?trackId=13752289.

Sutelan , Edward. “Olympic Swim Cap Ban: What Does 'Soul Cap' Ruling Mean for
Black Swimmers at 2021 Games?” Sporting News, July 25, 2021.
https://www.sportingnews.com/us/athletics/news/olympic-swim-cap-ban-2021-
swimmers/3526wghlsb8v1ajeilz08cx41.

4
“The Official Campaign of The CROWN Act Led by the CROWN Coalition.” The
Official CROWN Act. Accessed June 17, 2022. https://www.thecrownact.com/.

5
Appendix
Sources used for “The Evolution of Black Women Journalists Hair in the News: How The
CROWN Act Has Changed Black Hair Forever”
List of sources in the order in which they appear in this project: Shawnie, 310-722-0384;
Anthony Hoard, 612-407-4192; Cherney Amhara, cherney.amhara@gmail.com, Brittany
Hardaway, hardaway.brittany27@gmail.com; Kim Shine, kimshinemedia@gmail.com; Janice
Littlejohn, jlittlej@usc.edu; Ashley Graham, ashg4906@gmail.com; Holly J. Mitchell, Cynthia
Lezama (Deputy of Communications) CLezama@bos.lacounty.gov,

Asset Metadata

Creator Smith, Anaja (author)

Core Title The evolution of Black women journalists' hair in the news: how the CROWN Act has changed Black hair forever

Contributor Electronically uploaded by the author (provenance)

School Annenberg School for Communication

Degree Master of Arts

Degree Program Specialized Journalism

Degree Conferral Date 2022-08

Publication Date 08/03/2022

Defense Date 08/03/2022

Publisher University of Southern California (original), University of Southern California. Libraries (digital)

Tag Anchor,Black hair,black hair salons,black hair stylist,black journalists,black women journalists,hair acceptance,hair discrimination,holly j mitchell,mmj,multimedia journalist,natural hair,natural hair on air,natural hair on air movement,OAI-PMH Harvest,reporter,The CROWN Act

Format application/pdf (imt)

Language English

Advisor Pecot-Hebert, Lisa (committee chair), Frazier, Taj (committee member), Richardson, Allissa (committee member)

Creator Email anajasmi@usc.edu,smithianaja@gmail.com

Permanent Link (DOI) https://doi.org/10.25549/usctheses-oUC111376028

Unique identifier UC111376028

Legacy Identifier etd-SmithAnaja-11086

Document Type Thesis

Format application/pdf (imt)

Rights Smith, Anaja

Type texts

Source 20220803-usctheses-batch-968 (batch), University of Southern California (contributing entity), University of Southern California Dissertations and Theses (collection)

Access Conditions The author retains rights to his/her dissertation, thesis or other graduate work according to U.S. copyright law. Electronic access is being provided by the USC Libraries in agreement with the author, as the original true and official version of the work, but does not grant the reader permission to use the work if the desired use is covered by copyright. It is the author, as rights holder, who must provide use permission if such use is covered by copyright. The original signature page accompanying the original submission of the work to the USC Libraries is retained by the USC Libraries and a copy of it may be obtained by authorized requesters contacting the repository e-mail address given.

Repository Name University of Southern California Digital Library

Repository Location USC Digital Library, University of Southern California, University Park Campus MC 2810, 3434 South Grand Avenue, 2nd Floor, Los Angeles, California 90089-2810, USA

Repository Email uscdl@usc.edu

Abstract (if available)

Abstract Black hair salons are typically warm, inviting and relatable spaces where many feel comfortable to vent about their personal lives. The beautification process there is more than a physical transformation. It is a bonding session with the stylist or other women in the shop. It is a place of safety and no judgment. As I sit in Shawnie’s chair to get my hair braided for the first time by a professional, I realize how relieved I am. I feel secure in my decision to get cornrows, although I will be on air the next day. But why is this important?
Historically, Black women have used hair to creatively express their personal style. The juxtaposition of this self-expression and the perception of others of Black hair, is that many Black women have not always been welcome to wear their hair in styles that are true to the identity of our culture. From the Tignon Law of 1786 to 2019’s The CROWN Act, or Create a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair law, over time there has been a shift in acceptance of Black hair in conventional settings.
In the 1970s, Black women wore the afro. In the ‘80’s relaxed hair and jerry curls took over. In the ‘90s, women wore box braids after Janet Jackson made them popular in the movie “Poetic Justice”. During the 2000s and 2010s, was the birth of various protective styles like kinky twists, sew-ins and eventually wash-and-goes. But these styles were rarely, if ever seen on journalists. From the late 2010s to the 2020s, Black women wear a culmination or version of all of these styles in broadcast news, television series and in movies. Overall, there has been an increase of natural hair representation in the mainstream media.
I spoke with a Black Los Angeles hairstylist who says since The CROWN Act has passed in California—which stands to prohibit discrimination against natural hairstyles including braids, dread locs, natural textured curls, etc.—she’s experienced an increase in the request of natural hairstyles like faux-locs, corn rows and other protective styles from the working woman. I also followed people who have experienced hair discrimination in the workplace, or unconventionally decided to wear natural hairstyles as an anchor or reporter.
I created a multimedia piece (part written feature story and part broadcast video) to report on the evolution of hairstyles worn by Black women in television news. My original reporting includes what Black hair means in the Black community, how it is directly related to self-esteem, self-acceptance and self-discovery, and the importance of being able to wear it in mainstream spaces without discrimination. I explored the reasoning behind the radical decision Black women journalists have made to wear natural hairstyles on air including the passing of The CROWN Act (2019), and the liberation they feel from the authenticity of their freedom of expression.